(Earth & Fork)

Minted Pasta, Lamb Ragù

2011-03-30T11:15:00.007-04:00

I have been thinking of this fresh pasta dish that is indicative of Spring and its great new offerings. Though this may be a little premature, there will be pea shoots, ramps, and dandelion greens that are beginning to sprout up. Peas and mint are a classic, simple, and satisfying pairing. Lamb and mint also go together for a reason. It just tastes good. Why not bring them all together in the most comforting way possible (a ragù) and bust out the pasta machine?

I like fresh pastas to be balanced. Too rich, they don't have enough chew and body. Not enough richness, I find myself craving the silkiness that more eggs and fat provide. This dough strikes a wonderful textural and taste balance. To make the dough green, I blanched and puréed dandelion, mint, and peas. Blanching sets their bright green color, allowing the vegetal dough to be transformed into a vivid hue of Spring. Pappardelle is the perfect canvas to absorb some rich, pleasantly unctuous lamb ragù.

The ragù is layered and textured, getting a long bathing for a few hours to soak up some flavor, then reduce, concentrating into a bold sauce. Topped with fresh pea shoots, mint, and pecorino, this pasta embodies spring, bringing peas, mint, and lamb all together.

RECIPE

Minted Pasta Dough:
1 1/2 C. Dandelion Greens (loosely packed, just the greens, no stems)
1/3 C. Mint Leaves (loosely packed)
1/8 C. Peas (Fresh or frozen)
3 Tbsp. Olive Oil (Extra Virgin)
2 Tbsp. Milk
2 3/4 Cups AP Flour
2 Tsp. Salt
2 Whole Eggs
5 Egg Yolks

In a large pot, bring water up to a boil. Also set up an ice bath in a bowl with ice cubes and cold water. Lightly salt the water and add in the dandelion greens for about 40 seconds, or until bright green. Stop the cooking process by putting them in the ice bath. Repeat the same process for the mint and peas. (If using fresh peas, blanch for about 40 seconds longer.) After the dandelion, mint, and peas have cooled, drain as much water as possible, squeezing, and patting dry. Roughly chop and add to a blender. Add in the olive oil and milk and blend until smooth, emulsified and completely green. In a food processor add the sifted flour, and salt. Add in the 2 whole eggs and begin to process. Add in all of the green paste. Process adding in one egg yolk at a time, just until the pasta dough comes together. Turn out the pasta dough onto a floured work surface and begin to knead for about 5 minutes. Once the dough is silky and comes together nicely, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, up to 2 hours. Reserve the dough until ready to roll out.

Lamb Ragù:

Olive Oil
1 Onion, large yellow, medium brunoise
4 Carrots, peeled, medium brunoise
1 lb, Lamb, ground (rested out of refrigerator for 1/2 hour)
1/2 c. red wine
2 Tbsp. Tomato paste
1 C. Crushed Tomatoes (San Marzano)
1 1/2 C. Lamb Stock (or Chicken Stock)
1 Tbsp. Cinnamon
1 Tbsp. Cumin (toasted and ground)
2 Bay Leaves
1 Tbsp. Nutmeg
2 tsp. Smoked Paprika
1 Tbsp. Red Wine Vinegar
1/4 C. Pine Nuts, toasted
Salt
Pepper

For Garnish: Peas, Pea Shoots, Mint, Pecorino

In a large, wide, heavy-bottomed pan, heat some olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan over medium high heat. Add in the onions and begin to let them sweat, but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add in the carrots and continue to cook for 10 minutes. Add salt. Some carmelization is okay. Add in the lamb and begin to brown and break it up. Add salt. Brown in well for 3-5 minutes. Turn the heat up to high, add in the wine and deglaze, scraping any bits that have stuck to the bottom. Cook off the alcohol and add in the tomato paste and crushed tomatoes. Add in the stock along with the cinnamon, cumin, bay leaves, nutmeg, pepper, paprika, and red wine vinegar. Lower the heat to simmer and let the liquid reduce by half. Adjust seasonings. Put on lid slightly askew letting some steam out. Cook for at least 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally and until the stock has reduced and thickened. If it is too thick, add more stock and reduce.

Putting it all together:

Using a pasta machine, begin to roll out the pasta. Hand cut pappardelle (about 1/2" - 3/4" wide. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Heavily salt the water. Add in batches of pappardelle cooking for about 1 minute. In a seperate saucepan, add in some of the ragu over high heat. Add in the pappardelle and some pasta water, finishing cooking the pasta for 1 more minute. Top with toasted pine nuts, peas, a chiffonade of mint, pea shoots, and a dusting of pecorino.

Collecting Wild Yeast

2011-02-21T13:49:00.010-05:00

Over the course of the past couple of months (which has been busy and caused a serious slowdown in posting), one thing that has kept me busy is attempting to tame wild yeasts and collect it for use in bread. Despite how daunting it may seem, it's actually really simple and rewarding.

One of the many benefits of wild yeast collected at home over store bought yeast (in it's many varieties) is quality and flavor control. Different flavors can come through depending on your yeast and can be controlled through various "feedings" and stages at which the yeasts are added to the dough. Sour, sweet, nutty, fruity, and mild flavored loaves have all come out of my oven. To start my culture, I created a "starter", or simply a mixture of flour and water that I left to ferment for a few days. After fermentation, a routine set of "feedings" begin, which is another mixture of two or three flours and water that help aid the sustenance of the wild yeast which have become active from fermentation. I'm sure I have lost a few people at this point, but really, it's not difficult and the entire process really happens as you do nothing and just set it to rest.

As for that loaf up there, the only ingredients are flour, water, and salt. The "rise" comes from my own yeast and has a uniquely sweet and sour taste. The whole process is very satisfying, in the way that the whole process works in conjunction with nature but comes directly out of the kitchen.

Here is my process, which I have culminated from many sources, and developed my own way, but is perhaps most similar to Tartine's process.

Collecting Wild Yeast:

Helpful tools: A kitchen scale, a clean bowl (I use a pint plastic container, but glass would be fine)

Ingredients needed: The best quality flours you can get (I use a mix of Bread Flour, Unbleached Whole Wheat AP, and regular AP)

Day 1: Mix an equal amount of whole wheat and bread flour with water. I do this on a kitchen scale and have it come to about 120 grams. Mix it well with a wooden spoon or your hands and it should be a thin consistency but a thick batter. Keep it covered with plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for 3 days.

Day 3: Check your flour and water mixture for any activity. If there is a pool of water sitting on top of the flour mixture, dump or scoop some off and mix the flour and water together. You want to see small bubbles forming. If none have formed, let it sit longer for a day or two more until you see bubbles or some activity. It may be starting to smell sour at this point, which is a good sign.

Day 5: Bubbles should be beginning to form and it should be smelling sweeter, like very ripe fruit and sugar. At this point, the starter is active. If it is not, let it sit for a couple more days until it is.

At this point, the fermented mixture contains yeasts and is ready to begin being "fed" regularly on a somewhat daily basis. To feed it, discard much of the starter (a bit more than half) and mix in equal proportion of water and flour (1/3 Whole wheat, 1/3 AP, 1/3 Bread flour) until it measures 120 g on a kitchen scale . If it is a little more or a little less it does not really matter. What does matter is that the starter begins to bubble after feeding (it may take a couple hours), which means the yeast is active and feeding. Repeat this process everyday or every other day (just make sure not to skip very long periods, and make sure to check that the yeast is active after feeding) After a week of successful feedings, the starter mixture can be used in applications for baking where you would use other types of store-bought yeast. It is as simple as that, and makes a very big difference.

Vegetable Salad, Winter Flavors

2011-01-06T23:40:00.005-05:00

After weeks of what feels like gorging, lighter fare can be a good thing. I wanted to challenge myself to make something using ingredients found in colder months, but have it bright, vibrant, and something that is still comforting. Beets, Brussels sprouts, carrots, citrus, and figs fill in for the seasonal produce. This salad is bright, vibrant, crunchy, creamy, and just really good. I have always loved beets, and the golden beets are milder, sweeter and less earthy. For a salad, they are perfect. Brussels sprouts get a raw, shaved treatment adding great crunch to the salad and the "greens" component. Eat this and feel good.

Recipe

2 lbs. Beets - golden, red, or a variety
Citrus Carrot Puree*
Smoked Paprika Vinaigrette*
Fried Eggplant and Crispy Shallots*
3 C. Brussels Sprouts - shaved with a mandolin, or chopped finely
2 tbsp. Scallions - chopped
6 Dried Figs
Salt
Pepper
Olive Oil

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Begin by trimming the root and top end off of the beets. Make individual pouches using aluminum foil add the beets, salt, pepper, and about a tablespoon of olive oil to each. The aluminum foil will help steam the beets as they roast. Roast them in the oven for about 50-60 minutes, or until tender and a fork can slide in and out easily. When tender, rub off the skins with a cloth towel. Slice into 1/4 " slices and reserve.

For the Citrus Carrot Puree:

3 Carrots - peeled
1/4 Walnuts
1/8 C. Orange Juice
1/8 C. Plain Yogurt

In a 375 degree oven, roast the carrots for about 20 minutes, or until tender and just starting to caramelize. Place the carrots along with the remaining ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth.

For the Smoked Paprika Vinaigrette:

Juice of 1/2 Lemon
2 Tbsp. Sherry Vinegar
1 tbsp. Honey
1 tbsp. Dijon Mustard
1 tbsp. Smoked paprika
Olive oil - Extra Virgin, the best you have

Whisk all ingredients except olive oil in a large bowl. While whisking vigorously, stream in olive until, smooth, glossy, and about double to triple the volume. Taste along the way and add as much as you like. Be sure to whisk thoroughly to not break the vinaigrette.

For the Fried Eggplant:
1 Medium Eggplant
2 Eggs
1 1/2 C. Panko
Salt
4 large Shallots sliced into rings

Heat a medium, heavy-bottomed pan over high heat and add about a quart of neutral oil (grapeseed, canola, etc..). While it is heating, cut eggplant into 1/4" slices. Dip slices of eggplant into eggs and shake off excess. Coat with crushed Panko and set aside. When the oil reaches 375 degrees, drop eggplant in and fry for about 3 minutes on the first side, or until golden brown. Flip over and fry the other side until golden brown. Place fried eggplant on lined paper towels and season with salt immediately. While the oil is hot, place shallots into the pot and fry until crispy and browned.

Putting it Together:

Reconstitute dried figs with a simple syrup and lemon juice for 5 minutes. Place beets, eggplant, and Brussels sprouts on the plate and arrange them next to each other. Season beets with salt and pepper. Place a smear of the citrus carrot puree on the plate and top with scallions. Top the brussels sprouts with the smoked paprika vinaigrette and crispy shallots.

Spaghetti Squash, Persimmon-Sour Cherry Mostarda, Parmesan Espuma

2010-12-19T12:30:00.005-05:00

I had a spaghetti squash lying around my kitchen, forgotten, and not necessarily begging to be cooked - squashes aren't the most exciting vegetables. But that does not mean it can't taste great. I actually really like spaghetti squash, it's name coming from the playful strands it produces as it becomes tender from cooking. That uniqueness made me think about a riff on spaghetti with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese. I wanted to take the familiar and blend it with the unfamiliar. Since persimmons are starting to become in season, it was a perfect stand in for the tomato - looking like its squat, orange cousin. And for the parmesan, an espuma, or foam is a perfect counterbalance to the squash and persimmon, which are both already heavy. Parmesan lends its flavor without bogging down the real stars - the spaghetti squash and persimmon mostarda.

In Northern Italy, they have a unique condiment paired with various meats and cheeses called a mostarda. Mostardas are fruits that have been candied but also preserved with mustard oil. They have this crazy savory-tangy-sweet flavor bounciness that they employ to their pairings. Persimmons and sour cherries get a simple mostarda treatment to play off of a simple and savory roasted spaghetti squash. This may have been inspired by spaghetti with tomatoes, but it turns out to be much more surprising and flavorful.

Recipe

For the Spaghetti Squash:

1 Squash (spaghetti, medium to large)
2 Tbsp. Butter
5 Garlic cloves, smashed
5 Thyme sprigs, whole
1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper
1 tsp. Mustard powder
Water
Nutmeg
Salt
Pepper

Preheat an oven for 375 degrees. Cut the squash in half, trimming off the root and stem end. Rub the cut side of the squash with the butter, mustard and pepper flakes. Sprinkle some salt, pepper, and nutmeg over the squash. Place in a roasting dish or a baking dish cut-side down. add in the garlic, thyme and some water until it comes about halfway up the squash. Place in the oven and roast for about 25 mins. Then, take out of the oven, flip the squash so that the cut sides face up and roast for another 25-30 minutes or until very fork tender.

For the Persimmon-Sour Cherry Mostarda:

2 Whole Persimmons
1/2 Cup Cherries, dried, pitted.
2 tsp. Verjus
1/3 Cup sugar
1 Orange, juiced
2 Drops Pure Mustard Oil, or about 1 Tbsp. Mustard Powder
Salt
Water

Peel and quarter the persimmons. Slice the persimmons into 1/4" slices. Add to a medium saucepan, add cherries and toss with the sugar. Turn the flame to medium and add the verjus, orange juice, and mustard oil or powder. As the sugar begins to dissolve, add water to cover and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Let the mostarda reduce, allowing the persimmons to become tender and the cherries to plump. Add a large pinch of salt after in has reduced. Add more water, and let it reduce again, until the liquid is almost syrupy. Check for seasoning and mustard.

For the Parmesan-Persimmon Espuma:

2 Persimmons
3/4 C. Milk
1/4 C. Almond Milk (homemade, or storebought without thickeners, or omit altogether and add more milk)
3 tbsp. Sugar
1 1/2 C. Parmesan, loosely packed, freshly grated
1/2 tsp. soy lecithin (optional, helps it emulsify and hold it's foam for longer, but not necessary)

In a medium saucepan, add sugar and milk and bring milk to a near simmer. Quarter the persimmons (no need to peel) and poach them in the milk for about 15 minutes, or just until they begin to become tender. Take off heat and process (in batches, if necessary) in a blender, or food processor. Strain with a very fine mesh sieve, collecting any particles. It should be a smooth velvety texture. Whisk in the grated parmesan into the warm liquid allowing it to melt in completely. There should be no lumps. Strain once more to make sure the liquid is completely smooth. Pour the liquid into a whipped cream (or iSi canister) Charge in with a canister. Shake.

Putting it all together:

Toast a 1/2 cup of almonds in a dry pan over high heat, shaking, for about 3 minutes. After toasted chop them finely. For each serving, have about 1 tsp. chopped herbs (thyme, rosemary, and parsley) ready. Heat a large saute pan over medium heat and melt about 2 Tbsp. butter. Allow it to color slightly until it is straw colored, but not quite browned. Strand the squash with a fork or pulling the flesh away with your hands. Add about half the squash into the saute pan. Coat the strands with the butter. Add in about half of the mostarda, reserving most of the juices. Stir to combine, and cook for about a minute. To plate, mound the squash with the mostarda and top with herbs and toasted almonds. Place a little serving of espuma either on top or on the side of each plate by inverting the canister and pushing some out.

A Local Winter

2010-11-30T12:26:00.006-05:00

Some scenes from Clark Park a week ago.

The farmers' markets become a little more scarce, everything is a little more gray, and there is no more local, colorful produce to be found. Well, not exactly. As some farmers' markets have begun to close up for the winter, there are still some fantastic places to load up on local products, sustainable meats, and great artisinal cheeses.

One of my favorite markets at Clark Park in West Philly is open all year round, and comes with the added bonus of food trucks surrounding the perimeter, so you scarf down some great coffee, tacos, and cupcakes as you peruse. In the late fall and winter, there are still apples, dark, leafy greens, eggs, cheeses, honey, humanely-raised meats and eggs. Fitler Square Farmers' Market remains open and stocked with vendors all year round as well.

For another week or two, Headhouse Farmers' Market will remain open, again outfitted with various food trucks, Headhouse is one of the larger markets in Philadelphia, with a big seletion of vendors.

Pumpkin Market continues to be a local hub for local food throughout the winter, carrying a little bit f everything, from speciality goods and products from those local to Philly, and also eggs, meats, cheeses, breads, produce from around the area. They even roast their own coffee in house from Joe.

Green Aisle Grocery on E. Passyunk has S. Philly covered with amazing foods sourced locally and regionally. Trips there usually end up with long conversations about the local food scene and good vibes. They have also recently struck up a deal with Momofuku, and the local blog world is abuzz with the news that they now carry Milk Bar cookies.

Greensgrow Farm in Fishtown offers up the local goods with a Winter CSA and also their market which they keep stocked with local breads, cheeses, pastured meats, and pastries.

The Fair Food Farmstand in the Reading Terminal Market is great anytime to just see their array of rotating selections of produce, meats, and jams that they carry along with the great cheeses they keep in stock. This is another place where you can strike up great conversations about food. Their local food guide is great for local eats.

So it isn't impossible to find great local food in the middle of winter. Winter doesn't have to be a dead season if options like these continue to support local food. Let me know if I skipped over or missed any of your favorite places to stock up some local grub.

Farro Risotto, Local Egg

2010-11-27T15:26:00.005-05:00

Feeling the need for something hearty, risotto usually does the trick. I picked up some farro, a grain similar to bulgur wheat, lends a great nutty and robust substantiality to a risotto. Farro can be found in Italian speciality stores and even in some grocery stores among the other grains. It is definitely worth it to seek it out (it is sometimes referred to as emmer wheat domestically, but I would suggest getting the kind that is imported from Italy, it is a little nuttier).

While traditional risotto takes a little patience and attention, the farro is much more simplistic. It's pretty much a one pot wonder. Throw in some aromatics, toast the farro, add some liquid and simmer away. Every thing in between or after those easy steps is really up to you.

To make a richer sauce, I topped mine with an egg I pick up from Clark Park Farmers' Market, which added a creaminess. An easy way to convince someone of local food goodness (at least in the flavor and aesthetics department) is to do an egg comparison. Good, local eggs like those found in farmers' markets are usually such a stark contrast to those found on supermarket shelves. The yolks are deep yellow-orange with a great creaminess.

This risotto is great with a big hunk a' bread to sop up some goodies, a glass of a robust wine, or a big beer, or whatever. Tell me this isn't good eating on a cold night.

Recipe
1 1/2 c. Farro
1/4 white onion, chopped fine
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 c. White Beans
1/2 c. dry white wine
3 tbs. Butter, unsalted
6 sprigs thyme
1 Tbsp. Sherry vinegar (red wine vinegar would work well also)
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
Eggs
Dried red pepper flakes
Olive oil
Pecorino Romano Cheese
Salt
Pepper

Start by putting a a tablespoon of butter in a pan over medium high heat. When the butter is hot, add onion, and begin to sweat until translucent. Add garlic and red pepper. Continue to cook until garlic has turned slightly straw colored and the oil becomes infused with chile. Add the farro and tomato paste and begin to toast the farro for about 3 minutes or until it begins to become fragrant. Add a good pinch of salt and some pepper and add the white wine, stirring while deglazing. With butcher's twine, tie up the sprigs of thyme into a bouquet garni. Add warm water 1/2 cup at a time allowing some of the farro to absorb it. Continue stirring until the farro becomes slightly starchy, about 5 minutes. Add another 1/2 cup of water to cover the farro. Continue to cook until the farro becomes tender, yet still has a bite. If the risotto becomes too dry continue adding hot water. Let it cook until done, about 20-30 minutes. In a seperate saute pan heat some olive oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, fry the egg in a ring mold for about 2 minutes, just until the white is set, but the yolk is still runny. To finish, check and adjust seasonings in risotto. For the last 3 minutes add prepared white beans to the risotto (Dried, soaked white beans are best). Add the remaining butter and some cheese to your taste. Serve in a shallow bowl with the egg on top. Some herb oil is nice, or some chopped herbs.

Herbed Gnocchi with Local Squash

2010-11-11T13:45:00.002-05:00

Cold nights. Local Squash. Thomas Keller. The ingredients were all there for a satisfying, comforting, rich meal. Perousing the Bouchon cookbook, I cam across the Herb Gnocchi which I have eaten before and immediately wanted again. The recipe is a pretty basic French-style, cheese and herb-based gnocchi and is easily adaptable with whatever you have on hand (different cheeses, herbs and accompaniments). I had some local squash and herbs , so I decided to use what I had. Since I had a lot of herbs, why not make an herb oil?

These gnocchi are so good and so rich. They are pretty much cheese, butter, herbs, and eggs, with barely just enough flour to bind them to hold their shape. Fine by me. The raw-milk Gruyere lended such a nutty creaminess that was decadent. I made the squash very simply and they were perfect to cut the richness. I added verjus, which would normally be odd with squash, but the acidity cut through some of the heaviness and brightened it up. These gnocchi are fairly simple and don't require that much time and taste very seasonal and very very good.

Recipe (Gnocchi adapted from Thomas Keller's Bouchon)

For the Herb Gnocchi:
1 1/2 cups water
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 tablespoon chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
1 cup grated Gruyere cheese.
7 large eggs

It's best if you get everything ready and prepared before you start. Having the ingredients in prep bowls is a plus and will keep the recipe flowing easily. Combine water, butter and 1 tsp. of the salt in a saucepan and let the butter melt. When it is simmering over medium, add all of the flour at once and begin to stir to slightly cook the flour. You want some of the moisture to escape, continue cooking until it begins to pull off the side of the pan and looks a little like mashed potatoes. Cook for about 5 minutes. Either by hand or with a stand mixture, take the dough off the heat and begin adding the eggs one at a time. (This is easiest with a mixer and do it on a low speed.) After two eggs have been mixed, add the mustard, herbs, and cheese. Continue adding the remaining eggs, and stop once the dough is able to move slowly off of a spatula. If it sticks, or does not move at all, add another egg. (Or, if you find by 6 eggs, it moves off the spatula just fine, then do not add any more.) Place the dough in a pastry bag and let it rest at room temp for 30 mins. Fit the pastry bag with 5/8" plain tip (or if you are like me and cannot be bothered to find tips and the like, cut a hole and the end of a plastic pastry bag). Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a simmer, not a boil. Pipe out gnocchi into the simmering water, about two dozen at a time. Prepare some sheet trays with paper towels. Cook the gnocchi for about 3 minutes. Allow them to float and cook, stirring gently. Drain them on the baking sheet. Allow them to set in the refrigerator for about a half an hour. After they have set, they are ready to be browned in a saute pan with plenty of butter. Saute on high heat for a minute or two, shaking them until they are golden brown on all sides. Serve with butternut squash and herb oil. (Recipes below)

Recipe - Butternut Squash

1/2 Medium Butternut Squash (the neck, peeled, medium dice)
2 Tbs. Butter
2 Tbsp. Verjus
Nutmeg, freshly grated
Salt
Black pepper

Over medium heat, melt butter until slightly golden and fragrant. Add the butternut squash and saute for a about 4 minutes, slightly caramelizing them. Add salt, pepper, and nutmeg (grate a few strokes, or more if you like). Saute for another minutes, bot allowing the squash to break down to much, holding their shape. Over high heat, finish sauteing with verjus, and remove from heat. Plate with gnocchi and herb oil.

Recipe - Herb Oil

1 Tbsp. Tarragon
1 Tbsp. Chives
1 Tbsp. Parsley
1/2 c. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

In a blender, put the herbs in, turn on the motor, and begin to drizzle in olive oil. Continue drizzling until the herbs are broken up and incorporated, about 2-3 minutes. When the herbs are incorporated, strain through a fine mesh sieve, or leave herb oil with bits of herbs in there (which I did, and think it has even more flavor). Serve with gnocchi and squash.

Ravioli, Autumn Flavors

2010-10-25T12:55:00.010-04:00

What's good at the markets? Squash, root veggies and hearty, leafy greens. This is why Autumn is so great. It is the earthiest of the seasons and produces such great comforting produce. The other day, I ended up picking up some big, bulbous varieties of squashes, some cheese, deep ruby-veined swiss chard, and cauliflower. I know it's a little overstated, but I still get inspired by seeing what's available locally in season. What I cook is dependent on it, not the other way around.

During this time of year, countless menus have ravioli filled with pockets of butternut squash, acorn squash, or pumpkin. Usually these swim in a sage or thyme brown butter sauce. There's nothing wrong with it, but there isn't anything particularly exciting about it either. Often, the flavors are fine, but the texture is mushy and boring. I set out to correct this not by filling my ravioli with squash, but, rather use squash in my pasta dough and highlight some fresh Swiss chard and ricotta with roasted garlic for the filling.

The pasta dough comes out silky and luxurious while still having texture. A concentrated acorn squash puree is needed to blend into the dough, but I also ended up using it as a base for my sauce, along with butter, wine and fall herbs. The dough has the subtle flavors of the acorn squash and is seriously delicious. The other star is the ricotta filling studded with caramel-y roasted garlic and fresh Swiss chard. The whole dish comes together with a topping of crushed amaretti cookies for some textural crunch. Eat this immediately before Autumn fades.

Recipe

Ravioli, Autumn Flavors

This recipe will be split into four sections: Squash Base, Pasta Dough, Filling, and Sauce.

For the Squash Base (Puree):
1 Acorn Squash (Medium, or large, peeled, cut into 1" cubes)
3 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tbsp Sea Salt
2 Tsp. Sugar
2 Tsp. Freshly ground Black pepper
2 Tsp. Freshly ground Nutmeg
1/4 c Parmigiano Reggiano (grated)
3 Tbsp. Butter (Unsalted, and melted)
1/4 c Milk

Preheast oven to 385 degrees. In a mixing bowl, combine squash cubes, olive oil, sea salt, sugar, pepper, and nutmeg. Coat evenly, and distribute on a baking sheet lined with Aluminum foil. Roast until tender and carmelized, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Transfer the squash to a food processor and blend with Pamigiano, butter, and milk until the consistency is smooth, but still a bit thick. Set aside.

For the pasta dough:
3 c. AP flour (plus about another cup for kneading and dusting)
3 Whole Eggs
2 Egg Yolks
1/3 c. + 1 Tbsp. Squash Puree* (Recipe above)
1 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Tbsp. Sea Salt

Working in a food processor, gather all ingredients in the processor bowl and begin to pulse until the ingredients just begin to form. It should still be shaggy and not fully together. Turn dough out on a heavily floured board and begin to knead for about 10 to 15 minutes, kneading in flour if necessary. Wrap the ball of dough in plastic wrap and set in the refrigerator for 1/2 an hour.

For the filling:
1 Bunch Swiss Chard (tough bottom stems removed)
2 Heads Rosted Garlic*
2 and 1/4 c. Whole Milk Ricotta
1 Pinch Sea Slat
2 Tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Chop the Swiss chard cross wise into 1/2" strips. In a large saute pan, heat up 1Tbsp. of olive oil. When hot, add in the greens, and wilt for about a minute and a half. Pour in the other tbsp. of olive oil, turn down heat to medium and put a lid on the pan allowing it to steam for another minute or two, or until tender. In a mixing bowl, combine the ricotta, salt, roasted garlic* and swiss chard. Stir to combine and set aside. (Note: for roasted garlic, take two heads of garlic coated in olive oil and roast at 250 degress for an hour and a half. Cut a little bit off the top and squeeze out amazingly sweet goodness.)

For the sauce: (Since I am a believer that pasta needs to interact with sauce in a pan, and not just be poured over, this sauce yields enough to coat about a dozen ravioli at a time.)
1/3 c. Squash Base* (Recipe Above)
3 Tbsp. Butter
1/4 c. dry white wine
1/4 c. Starchy pasta water
2 tbsp. chopped Rosemary
2 tbsp. chopped Thyme
1/4 c. Parmigiano Reggiano (grated)

Heat butter in a large saute pan until turning slightly golden. Add the squash puree and stir until in begins to break down. Deglaze with white wine (a dry, good tasting wine works best) and stir for another minute. Add pasta water until the sauce is loose, but not water and has a sheen. Add herbs and cheese at the last moment after ravioli have gone in.

Putting it all together:
Special Equipment: rolling pin, pasta machine, amaretti cookies.

Roll out pasta dough, fold it over onto itself, and roll out again for texture. Repeat twice. Roll it out using a pasta machine until it is about 1/8" thick and in sheets. Using a 3" round cooking cutter, cut rounds in the sheets of dough. In the middle of each round place 1 tbsp. each of filling. Place another, unfilled pasta round on top, sealing it by brushing water around the outside edge of the dough. Continue to fill and seal about a dozen at a time. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, add a handful of salt (it should taste like the sea!) and drop about a dozen ravioli in at a time. Cooke for 2-3 minutes a little after they begin to float and transfer them into the pan with the sauce. Coat each of the ravioli in sauce for bout 20 - 30 seconds. Top with more Parmigiano Reggiano if you like and crushed amaretti cookies. Eat immediately.

Popovers

2010-10-10T13:41:00.004-04:00

I've been making these little airy, cloud-like pastries in the morning as a way to entice me to get moving. It's an incredible experience making them...they are so simple to prepare and take virtually no hands-on time. Plus, the smell of fresh coffee and popovers baking in the oven isn't too bad either. It almost seems as though these shouldn't work. The batter is thin and with no leavening agent, it seems like it is an impossibility that they will rise, but without fail, they have every time.

These would also go great with something more savory and as an accompaniment to a main dish for dinner. The batter is great for improvising and riffing on whatever theme you got going. Fresh chopped herbs and/or spices would work beautifully in here. For something sweeter, I sprinkle in some lemon zest and agave for the morning. Honey butter and fig jam are my condiments of choice for these sweeter versions. Since so little ingredients go in to make the batter, it really is important to use high quality ingredients for great popovers. Local eggs, raw milk, and quality flour make all the difference.

Recipe

Popovers

2 eggs, preferably local, free-rang eggs

1 c AP flour

2 tsp. salt

1 1/4 c. Milk

Zest of 1/2 lemon
1 Tbsp. Agave nectar

2 Tbs. Butter

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Combine flour, eggs, salt, milk, zest and 1 tbs. of melted butter. Mix all ingredients, but be careful not to overwork. Some lumps are perfectly fine. With the other tbsp. of butter, liberally grease each cup in a popover or muffin pan. Fill batter about three quarters of the way up the individual cups. Bake for about 18 minutes. Then lower the oven to 350 degrees and bake for another 20 minutes, or until the popovers are puffy and golden brown.

For savory variety, include chopped herbs or spices into the batter before baking.

Fresh Tortillas with Queso Fresco, Salsa Verde, and Mole

2010-09-24T15:28:00.005-04:00

The past couple weeks, after churning out what seems like hundreds of corn tortillas, has brought plenty of experimentation. My latest obsession has been fueled mainly by a new tortilla press, which really, if cranking out any more than a few tortillas at a time, is pretty necessary. The good news is that they are sturdy and inexpensive (mine is cast iron and cost no more than what I would've spent shelling out some dough for a few packages of prepared corn tortillas). My initial excitement has meant tortillas for breakfast, tortillas for lunch, and tortillas for dinner.

Queso Fresco, a common fresh cows milk cheese in Mexico, is a tortillas best friend. When I heard it is relatively easy to make, I knew I had to make some if I kept making non-stop tortillas. It's fresh, crumbly, tangy, and balanced when topped on something savory. Use the best quality cow's milk you can find. A local, grass-fed, raw milk is ideal.

With cheese taken care of, I needed some more variety. Quickly, I made slaw with jicama, mangoes, and fresh lime juice. But what I was really after was some salsa verde and some mole (poblano-style). My salsa verde, is light and fresh, with a good amount of heat, just how I like it - and its pretty straightforward to make. The mole, however, is a time consuming affair, but I promise, well worth it. No, I don't have a Mexican grandmother who told me the secrets of mole as she stirred a big pot. What I did do, is plenty of research and some trials. What I came up with is long list of ingredients and a really flavorful, rich, chile-laden sauce. With these sauces and cheese, you can determine any filling you like - I ate mine with seasoned black beans and wild purple and golden chanterelle mushrooms. Below are three great recipes to go with freshly made corn tortillas: Mole, Salsa Verde, and Queso Fresco.

RECIPE

Mexican Mole (Poblano-style)

4 Ancho Chiles
5 Guajillo Chiles
4 Poblano Chiles
4 Serrano Chiles
3 Jalapeno Chiles
6 Tomitillos
1/4 Cup Almonds, toasted
1/2 Pepitas, toasted
5 Oz. Dark Chocolate (preferably Mexican, at least 70% cacao)
1 Tbsp. Ground Cinnamon
6 cloves Garlic, chopped finely
1 Onion, medium sized, diced
1/2 bunch Cilantro
2 Tbsp. Sherry Vinegar
6 Dried Plums
1 tbsp. Cloves
2 tsp. Nutmeg
1 tbsp. Agave Nectar
1 tbsp. Anise Seed
2 tbsp. Oregano, fresh, preferably Mexican
Neutral Oil (vegetable, canola, or grapeseed)
Salt
Pepper

1. Begin by taking the dried anchos and guajillo chiles and reconstituting them in very hot, near boiling water. Submerge and re-hydrate for about 30 mins - 1 hour. Meanwhile broil the fresh poblano, serrano, and jalapeno chiles turning every so often until the skin has blistered. Remove the skin, and set aside. Husk and rinse the tomitillos and begin to broil them until the skin begins to darken to golden brown. Remove and dice.

2. In a medium sized pot over medium-high heat, heat a good glug of oil until hot and begin to sweat the onions. After about 5 minutes, or when the onion begin to be translucent, add the garlic. Saute the aromatics for another 5 minutes.

3. In a mortar and pestle, crush the cloves and anise. When fine, add the cinnamon and freshly grated nutmeg and mix. After the dried chiles have rehydrated, remove the stems and seeds, and be sure to reserve the chile-flavored water for later use. It's important.

4 Return to the onions and garlic and add the chopped tomitillos. Begin to finely chop all of the chiles leaves the ribs on but removing the seeds. Add into the pot. Add the almonds and pepitas. Reduce the heat to low, and stir occasionally. When the chiles have softened after about 20-30 minutes. Deglaze the bottom of the pot with some sherry vinegar.

5. Add the roughly chopped chocolate and agave nectar and begin to melt. Add in the cloves, nutmeg, anise, cinnamon, and oregano. Chop the dried plums and cilantro and add them as well. By now, the sauce should be thick, rich, and velvety. Taste and season with salt and pepper.

6. To thin out the sauce, add about 5 cups of the chile water that was used to rehydrate the dried chiles. This water has unbelievable flavor with it's spicy sweetness. Stir the sauce and allow to thicken and reduce for another 30 minutes. The longer you allow this sauce to simmer and bubble, the more flavorful and melded it becomes.

7. After the sauce has thickened, blend the sauce using a food processor or blender and then strain. Put the strained sauce back in the pot and keep at a simmer.

8. Enjoy the thick, rich mole with something hearty like woodsy mushrooms or rich meat that can stand up to it.

RECIPE

Salsa Verde

6 Tomitillos
2 Jalapenos
3 Serrano Chiles
1/2 White Onion, chopped
1 Bunch Cilantro
Salt

1. Husk and rinse tomitillos. In the broiler, place tomitillos on a sheet pan and broil, turning every minute until the skin is wrinkly.

2. Chop the chiles, removing the seeds. Remove the leaves off the bunch of cilantro.

3. In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients and blend. Use some water to thin it out, if needed. Salt to taste.

RECIPE

Queso Fresco

1 Quart Cow's Milk - preferably local, raw, and grass-fed
1 Tbsp. Kosher Salt
1 Tbsp. White Vinegar
Juice of 1 lime.

1. Prepare a colander lined with cheese cloth over a large empty bowl. Heat the milk until nearly boiling about 200 to 210 degrees Fahrenheit. Add the salt and turn the heat to low. Add the lime juice and vinegar and begin to stir. Almost immediately the milk will begin to curdle and seperate. Continue to stir for a minute.

2. Pour the milk and curds into the cheesecloth-lined colander. Drain the whey and allow the curds to continue to drain and become further if you like. Eat and enjoy knowing you made a simple, fresh cheese.

Yields about a hockey puck size.

Minneapolis Farmers' Market

2010-09-18T15:11:00.020-04:00

On a recent trip to Minneapolis, I had the opportunity to go to the largest outdoor farmers' market I have ever seen. It was crazy big, expanding a vast distance over four large-roofed stalls and spilling out into the adjacent parking lots. It was obvious that people in MN take their food seriously, with a culture focusing on the locality and sustainability prominently featured in restaurant menus and at the farmers' market. This daily market was crawling with hordes of people (not a bad thing) while I was there, busily scoping out the latest seasonal goods. I can get down with this.

Fall is apparently fast approaching, as evident by the plentiful gourds and squash.

During this transitional time from late summer to early fall is interesting. Vegetables with dark leafy greens, corn, watermelon, and tomatoes were very much still around, but heartier root vegetables and squash were begging to be noticed. We quickly took note, picking up some zucchini, yellow squash (the smoothest and most orange that I have ever seen), and some eggplant.

Endless local produce - a locavore's dreamland

The market was heavily influenced by Asian produce - from the somewhat ordinary Thai eggplants to the less familiar Buddha's Hand. A sea of Asian chiles and products that made me question whether it was truly edible were plentiful and certainly a destination for all produce that is Asian.

Certainly what struck me was the austerity of the market. People were here because they care about good food. Good food is often local and seasonal grown by people who truly care about their professions. This is not a market to go to see and be seen. There was no trace of fashion-and-trend-hopping from the Minnesotans. These people were here for food, not to brag about their latest eco-sensibilities. Good food was here and here were the people. This type of honesty is refreshing in a time were terms "local", "sustainable", and "green" are thrown around with obscured truth.

Another exciting aspect was the almost carnival-like atmosphere, with a grab bag of vendors from those cooking up grass-fed local hot dogs, to local artisan crafters of cheese curds (who knew?). The sheer vastness of the market has so much to offer, it would be exciting to visit every week as season's and selections change.

In the end, the tomato lady did not steer us wrong with a gnarled, lipstick red heirloom. We gobbled up our day's offerings with some homemade Parisian gnocchi a la Thomas Keller (so good, thanks B and J), and a simple eggplant dip with bread. If you are in Minneapolis, definitely check out the market. This is what it's all about.

Minneapolis Farmers' Market
312 East Lyndale Ave North
Minneapolis, Minnesota, 55405
Open daily from 6AM to 1PM
Produce through mid-November

Watermelon Agua Fresca

2010-09-10T15:45:00.001-04:00

As the last of the local watermelons roll in, and with summer winding down, the prospect of sitting outside spitting seeds in the brisk nights seems out of place. So, as I have begun to churn out hundreds of corn tortillas this past week with my latest obsesseion - a new tortilla press, agua frescas, or flavored, fresh, fruit waters common in Mexico, go perfectly with all of my corny creations. Leftover watermelon invents itself as a refreshing, bright, thirst-quencher in this agua fresca.

Recipe

1/4 lg. Watermelon (cut into 1" chunks)
1 1/2 cups water
3 Limes (juiced)
3 Tbs. Agave Nectar

Working in batches, combine everything in a blender. Continue to blend for a few minutes. Strain with a fine mesh sieve. Add to a pitcher and fill with ice. Yields about 1/2 gallon.

Local Corn Soup With Summer Flavors

2010-09-01T12:18:00.009-04:00

It's starting to feel like the end of summer, but don't tell that to corn. It's still as abundant and in season as ever. I put together a little taste of some summer flavors concentrated in a soup. This soup tastes like sitting on a picnic bench, eating corn right off the cob slathered with butter. It will bring you back. The twist is the coconut milk, which lends another classic summer flavor to this soup.

This recipe is a little time consuming and takes some preparation and multitasking. But really, all of the components are fairly easy, and this soup delivers so much flavor that you probably won't be cursing the dishes as they stack up after a taste of the finished product. This soup gets me excited because of the deep levels of flavor. Definitely corny, spicy from some chiles, smokey, bright from limes, and pleasantly hinted coconut flavors all mingle together. The concentrated corn stock is great, and if you have some leftover, try experimenting with it in some other things as well.

The soup is really versatile and could definitely work well served before a meal as a cold soup.

Sorry about the lack of pictures, I completely forgot until I was about to eat this, and hurriedly snapped a lackluster picture.

Recipe

6 Ears of Corn
1/2 Stick of Butter
1/2 Jalapeño, diced
1 Cup Coconut Milk
3 Limes
1 Cilantro bunch
3 Tbs. Sriracha
Salt + Pepper
Paprika
Sea Salt

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees farenheit. Begin to soaking the ears of corn with the husks still on for about 15 minutes. Place the whole ears of corn directly on the rack and roast for about 35 minutes.

After roasting, strip all of the kernels off the cobs, being sure to get much of the corn milk as well by scraping the cobs with the back of your knife, set aside the cobs for later use. Juice the limes, setting aside the juiced halves. Fill a pot with a quart of water, the leftover cobs, and the lime rinds. Put in some cilantro (stems and all), about a good handful. Let the stock come to a simmer and let simmer for about a half an hour, reducing by about a quarter to a half. Strain the stock in a fine mesh sieve.

With a blender, working in batches, add about half of the corn kernels, half the butter, half of the lime juice, half of the cilantro leaves, half of the jalapeño, and about half of the coconut milk with about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of the corn stock. Season with salt and pepper. Puree as much as possible. Depending on the starchiness of your corn, more corn stock may need to be added to develop the desired consistency. The soup should not be thin, but should easily coat the back of a spoon and be rich. Set aside, continue with the rest of the corn.

Strain the soup with a chinoise, or very fine sieve (I used a chinoise, and it came out beautifully velvety). Taste, check for seasonings and lime. Serve with some sriracha and smoked paprika and sea salt sprinkled on top. Soup could be served hot or cold.

Caponata

2010-08-19T15:51:00.011-04:00

Caponata is a traditional Italian dish from Sardinia made mostly from eggplants. Part of the beauty of caponata is its versatility and the way it could be served as a side, appetizer, with crostini, or atop a heap of pasta. I'll admit - on this particular night I wasn't necessarily trying to think of ways to bring the tastes of Sardinia into my kitchen, but rather I had a sliced eggplant sitting lonely in the fridge from the night before. In a way it was local food calling to me from the fridge and from my garden bursting with fresh heirloom tomatoes, basil and thyme. As a bonus, the eggplant was also local. Wheels started to turn and it just so happened that tastes of Sardinia would come by way of Philly.

Debate exists on where caponata has its roots and also how it should be made. I made my own caponata with a nod to some traditions from the Sardinian versions and a nod to Genoan versions and also what was available to me. Easily offended Sardinians may or may not want to stop reading now. I do know is that a great caponata should be sweet, salty, spicy, tangy, and a little sour. All the bases are covered in this version and it is richly complex, deep, savory, and addictively delicious. The addition of a dark cocoa powder lends depth, pine nuts add texture and nuttiness, while the dried plums added sweetness.

Recipe
1 Whole Eggplant (diced into 1/2" cubes)
1/2 Red Onion
4 cloves of Garlic (sliced)
1/4 cup Dried Plums (roughly chopped)
1/4 cup Pine Nuts
1 Tbs Capers
3 Tbs Dried Chile flakes
2 Tomatoes, preferably local (1" dice)
2 Tbs Cocoa Powder (the darkest available)
2 Tbs Tomato Paste
3 Tbs Thyme (a big bunch, stems separated and discarded)
Extra Virgin Olive oil
2 Tbs Balsamic vinegar
Pinch of Sugar
Handful of Basil
Salt
Pepper

Heat and coat the bottom of a 12" saute pan with generous glugs of olive oil on medium high. Put in the eggplant, cooking, and evenly turning the pieces to give them a golden color for about five minutes. Add the onion and continue to cook for another minute or two. Add the pine nuts, dried plums, capers, garlic, and chiles. Continue stirring toasting the pine nuts in the olive oil until they turn golden brown, about 3 or 4 minutes.

After the pine nuts have toasted, add the tomatoes (seeds, water, and all) and cook for another minute until the tomatoes begin to break down. Add the tomato paste, thyme, blasamic vinegar, cocoa powder and sugar. Stir, add salt and pepper to taste. Turn down the heat to medium and cover partially with a lid. Cook until the eggplant has partially cooked down, yet there are still tender chunks, about 10 or 15 minutes . The tomatoes should have broken down into a rich, thick sauce, yet most of the eggplant should hold up. Chiffonade basil and garnish on top. Yields enough for about 4-5 servings.

Garden Cafe at Terrian

2010-08-12T15:43:00.010-04:00

Fresh off of it's "Best of Philly" nod in the recent Philadelphia Magazine, and fresh from his departure at the much praised Supper in Philadelphia, Keith Rudolf has created a menu pulsing with local, fresh ingredients inside a dramatic space. The Garden Cafe at Terrain has recently opened itself to dinner service after months of serving strictly lunch and the occasional monthly chef's tasting specials.

What you will find here, other than a love for local ingredients, are surroundings of the garden center, beautifully landscaped and an intricately decorated greenhouse that makes you forget you are essentially at a retail garden store. The farm-like look with deep wood tones, flowers and a fountain mirrors the local-heavy food and evokes simplicity. Impressively, as our waitress informed, us only a smattering of main ingredients come from more than 50 miles away.

This BYOB's food is most certainly solid and will definitely be more consistent as it finds its stride. Complimentary bread baked in a flower pot (how apropos!) was more than a gimmick and was great with artisinal butter, pink sea salt and local honey. Simple and good. That seemed to be the theme of the evening. The local farm vegetable salad didn't amaze me with local stonefruit, heirloom baby tomatoes, baby greens and a boring dressing. But the local mushroom tart was earthy and complex, using tangy and bright Shellbark Hollow Farm's goat cheese, and local dandelion greens. The truffle dressing could've amped up more truffle flavor, however.

Perhaps the one of the best menu items is the artisianal cheese plates, a spread of the best local ingredients and cheeses. Rogue Creamery's smokey bleu was pungent, and indeed smokey, Shellbark Hollow Sharp Chevre was smooth, and almost hay-like, pairing great with the variety of mostardas laid out on the impressive tree trunk wheel. Sheep, goat, and cow's milk were represented nicely along with various accompaniments that were carefully thought out. The simple ingredients were left to speak for themselves and delivered big flavors.

Perhaps the one misstep was the Israeli couscous that suffered from too much acidity from lemon. With only pistachios and slightly undercooked dandelion greens, it needed a bit more refinement. Thankfully, it ended with house-made ginger wafers sitting beneath Franklin Fountain's ginger ice cream, and local peaches sauteed in butter and whiskey. Again, simple and delicious.

Garden Cafe at Styer's
914 Baltimore Pike,
Glen Mills, PA 19342

Summer Corn Salsa

2010-08-01T13:26:00.011-04:00

Back from the Media Famers' Market with some local corn and goodies, I knew what to do. Summer corn salsa just seems right about now, it's something cool, light, and refreshing in this sweltering heat. It seems especially right it the summer when combined with grilling. This salsa is so good, especially with just-picked, fresh ingredients. It's even good enough to stand on its own as just a side as a salad.

One of my favorite ways to make corn is the simplest: roasting it. Boiling corn produces bland, mushy kernels, but roasting leaves them with texture and full, corny flavor. Some things that I think really made this salsa/salad/relish unique is how I used the corn husks. After roasting the corn, the husks dry out. I decided to incorporate them by charring them until they smoke, then placing the husks in the bowl, covering them, letting the corn smoke infuse the salsa. It was a really pleasant smokiness perfect to accompany with the grilled vegetables I made.

Always try to roast your own peppers - it's so much better.

I could see this being really great over almost any fish (especially if prepared en papillote), or with grilled meats like pork. For me, I marinated eggplant and zucchini (it's squash season) simply with olive oil, tamari, sambal, and rice wine. Try this salsa, it's perfect for summer, bursting with fresh, seasonal flavors.

Summer Corn Salsa

2 Ears of Corn (preferably local)
1/2 Red Onion, diced
1 Cup Baby Heirloom Tomatoes (preferably local)
1 Red Bell Pepper Pepper
1 Jalapeno, diced finely
1 Anaheim Pepper, diced finely
1 1/2 Limes, juiced
1 tsp. Smoked Paprika
Fresh Parsley - to taste
Fresh Cilantro - to taste
Salt
Pepper

Soak the ears of corn (with the husks still on) in water for 5 - 10 minutes. In a preheated 350 degree oven, roast the corn directly on the rack for about 30-35 minutes. (Soaking your corn beforehand allows the corn to both roast and steam in the oven)

Take the red bell pepper and char it over a gas range or grill until it is blackened in spots. Put it on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, salt, and pepper, and roast until tender, about 30 minutes.

In a mixing bowl, half the tomatoes, roughly chop the parsley and cilantro and mix all the other ingredients in. Toss to combine, tasting for salt and pepper. When the corn is finished, peel back the dried out husks from the corn and reserve them. Strip down the corn kernels from the cob and mix directly into the bowl with everything else. With the back of your knife scrape the cob, making sure to get as much cornmilk out as possible (It's creamy and flavors the salsa wonderfully).

Carefully char the dried corn husks until they begin to smoke. Place the smoking husks into the bowl and cover with a lid for 5 minutes. Remove the husks, stir and taste again for salt, pepper, and lime.

Pairs well with grilled vegetables, fish, and meats.

Media Farmers' Market

2010-07-24T12:52:00.009-04:00

Last week I decided to go to the Media Farmer's Market to scope out what's looking good in season. Media Farmers' Market is open every Thursday 3-7. It's pretty large with about a dozen or so vendors selling dairy, baked goods, produce, and meat. It definitely has some great selection and is one of the larger ones with more vendors than most. The strawberries are long gone and I have been itchin' for some local delights. The market was buzzing with hyper-local goods and vendors all coming from Pennsylvania - so let's browse. Squash and zucchini were everywhere and are here to stay for awhile. No complaints or me...expect squash experiments to follow.

Samples were abound here, even more so than other farmers' markets, and you know I did some nibblin'....some cheese, sure....some samples of breads and desserts, why not?...some free ears of corn, uh yeah. I still am amazed at how pleasant the shopping experiences are at farmers' markets. People are always friendly, willing to talk, and share stories about food.

I walked out with the fixin's I needed for a summer corn salsa and a bag of coffee from Joe Coffee. I was told it was roasted about 12 hours earlier from when I bought it. Fair-trade, organic, and local roasted - I'm sold. The spotted brown bag seeping with coffee oils is enough to make my mornings a bit happier.

Media Farmers' Market
State and Gayley Sts.
Media, PA 19063
Thursdays, 3-7 PM

Village Whiskey

2010-07-15T02:47:00.011-04:00

The heat wave blazing over Philadelphia has made for lazy days, bogging me down, making me stroll the streets searching for a refresher. Not wanting to wait to squeeze in the tiny place at dinner times, an oppressively hot afternoon was the perfect time to stop in for a cool libation and some bar snacks as I passed by Jose Garces' Village Whiskey.

Village Whiskey's slightly small interior is decked out with a retro bar with reclaimed mirrors and wood with modern accents and clean designs. The bar's walls are stocked with what seems like hundreds of spirits, many of which are whiskey. The design and layout is really comfortable and casual, striving for a old time, neighborhood bar feel and a more modern Garces dining design.

I walked in wanting to try the Victory Brewing Summer Love Pale Ale, the weird hoppy love child between craft brewer Victory and the Philadelphia Tourism Board. As it turned out, Village Whiskey was out, but the tap that replaced it was Founders Brewing Cerise Cherry Ale. I'm not one to mix fruit and beer, but the server enticed me, and it sounded great, so I gave it a go. I know, it's not local, but it's good, really good. It wasn't overly fruity, but instead the cherry gave it a tart/malty taste that went down just right.

Bar snacks make a good beer even better. And the food I snacked on was enticing and sexy. Yes, if you don't know by now, pickles are sexy. We ordered some herb cherry tomatoes and truffle lemon artichokes. Both came with toasted baguette slices, olive tapenade, and ricotta. The tomatoes were really great, bursting with sweetness but also grounded by some licorice-y fennel and tangy mustard seed. The truffled artichoke could have used a little more truffle for my taste, but it was bright, lemony, and a little earthy from the truffle. The saltiness from the olive tapenade and it's brine-y sharpness plays nice with the creamy whipped ricotta.

One of the more slightly boring things I tried were the soft pretzels that took one too many dips in some mustard. They were soft and warm, but nothing special. I would pass and try something else next time. But once again, a veggie burger was added. I'm sorry....I know I said I thought they were lame but we happened upon one again. This veggie burger meant business with it's rich bean and lentil base topped with gaucamole and pickled cabbage as it slid down my gullet. I'm sorry about every bad thing I said about veggie burger. This one is substantial, and goes really well with beer, and when at a bar, this is always a good and important thing.

Village Whiskey

118 South 20th Street

Philadelphia, PA 19103

Noble - An American Cookery

2010-07-01T12:08:00.013-04:00

Noble has been on my "to eat" list for a while, and I scoped out their menu and found that they had a short, tight brunch menu. This usually is my style, and gets me excited, because more often than not it turns out to be a more controlled menu, with thought-out dishes. And, that's pretty much what Noble is - a pretty solid spot studded with lots of local ingredient love.

Our Sunday brunch jaunt was amid darkened clouds looming in the distance and a humid, sticky day. Not to worry, as the bartender promised me his "best drink ever" as I sucked down a tarragon, strawberry mojito. Maybe not the best ever, but it was refreshing, and a weird mix of savory and sweet. Bonus points for using local strawberries too.

On to the food: some chickpea fries with a preserved tomato jam were whisked to our table, and were hurriedly wolfed down. Don't make the mistake I did and split them - the portion is relatively small (only 4 fries) and I haven't been able to shake them from my dreams. The fries are slightly firm and crunchy on the outside and ridiculously creamy on the inside. The preserved tomato, a take on ketchup nearly left me licking the little bowl. I will take 40 more please.

We decided to get one dish geared more for breakfast and the other toward lunch. The crepes stuffed with nutella creme with fresh (and local, I was promised) berries joining the team were good, but nothing special. The nutella cream was good, but became heavy fast, and was unfortunately also lukewarm very fast. The strawberries were certainly fresh and local, but probably not the blueberries, with it being too early in the season. The crepes were also a bit thicker than desirable, but they were still decent, just lacking an element.

In the presence of a vegetarian, a veggie burger was ordered. I'm really torn on the issue of veggie burgers. The idea, frankly, is lame. Noble, however, has me rethinking my position. These are not your overly-processed, frozen veggie burgers, but rather a housemade brioche-like bun enclosing a massive patty made with mushrooms and savory herbs. This was more pâté than patty. Seriously. It was rich, earthy and really filling. Noble also does it right, serving it with sliced beets (rather than tomatoes) and cheddar. Despite the sloppiness of the burger, where a little more stability could be appreciated, the burger worked really well with all of it's elements and felt substantial, which is what a burger should be.

Noble, whose mission is to deliver with seasonality and locality of ingredients in mind ultimately provided a decent meal, but some fine tuning is probably needed to bump up the interest level on some things.

Noble: An American Cookery
2025 Sansom St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103

Honest Tom's

2010-06-24T13:00:00.007-04:00

I know these are long breaks between posts, and it's not because I haven't been eating and cooking, I have, but I have also just been busier in general, but I'm going to try to start posting more regularly again. But anyway....

Honest Tom's is a food truck that parks itself all throughout the city and sometimes at farmers' markets on weekends. The location changes almost daily and people in the know keep their eyes peeled on his Facebook and his Twitter to find out the day's location. You'll know the truck when you see it, the ominous looking skull amidst a psychedelic array of bright colors beckoning an eagerly hungry line.

It just so happened that while at Clark Park's farmer's market, Tom was there with some breakfast tacos. People are probably getting sick of my praises of Stumptown coffee, so I won't laud any more, but just know that it comes iced at Tom's in the summer. It was early in the morn, so breakfast tacos were being peddled.

Now I don't want to steer the readers in the wrong directions, these tacos are pretty simple: sweet potatoes, egg, guac, tomato, cilantro, tortilla. But, the quality of ingredients and the integrity in simplicity could inspire poems. But also, it's a taco. From a truck. In a park. Just eat it and enjoy, it's really good. I hear the fish tacos are awesome too.

Honest Tom's Taco Truck
Philadelphia, PA

Germantown Farmer's Market

2010-06-14T13:09:00.017-04:00

The other week I headed out to the Germantown Farmer's Market, which is practically in my back yard. I wasn't expecting there to be much selection or vendors, and I was kind of right. There were three - but this was definitely one of my favorites so far because of the Wyck house.

The vendors were good, and they all had delicious local goodies, with two produce stands (one from Lancaster, and one from fifty feet away) and cupcakes from 4 Carat Cakes. I picked up some gnarled and twirled garlic scapes (the first I saw this season) and was talking to the produce dude who told me I was welcome to browse the garden out back. Their herbs and produce comes from the garden located at the historical Wyck house right behind their stand. You know I went to explore it...

Turns out this place is a dream haven for local food-a-philes, with selections of produce (lettuce, strawberries, herbs), chickens, compost, and a homemade converted honeybee production. The garden was filled with gardeners working on the garden and little kids with their parents playing with the chickens. The grounds are kept really well and apparently the actual Wyck house is sometimes open to the public (it was closed when I was there) and from what I hear, is equally as interesting. Just seeing the old brick houses and buildings around the garden give this place so much more character.

On my way out, famished from my walk around the property, I was sure to pick up an oatmeal raisin whoopie pie cookie type thing, which was satisfying in all the right ways, and I left happy. For the garlic scapes, I have been using them in the morning putting them with eggs, and the other night I made a garlic scape and pea pesto (with chile oil and hazelnuts) which was ridiculously good. Go check out Germantown and the Wyck House and on a related note, I also saw recently that Capogiro is making a rose gelato made from the roses at the Wyck house, so that's an obvious must try.

Germantown Farmer's Market
Germantown Ave. and Walnut Lane
Philadelphia, PA 19144 Every Friday 2 - 6 PM

Wyck House and Garden
6026 Germantown Avenue
Philadelphia, PA 19144

Bodhi Coffee

2010-06-04T18:47:00.015-04:00

The other week when I was at the Headhouse Farmer's Market, I noticed that Bodhi coffee was about to open and they were going to be brewing one of my favorite roasters, Stumptown. I went in last week to poke around and check out the offerings. It's a quaint little space, freshly opened, and they were still getting their new place organized and situated. This neighborhood cafe sells all of the usual coffee and espresso drinks plus some specialty drinks not really found many other places in the city.

What really got me excited was their commitment to use as many local ingredients and products as possible. The baristas were especially friendly and good sports about me grilling them about every thing they had. All of the bread comes from Wild Flour Bakery for their sandwiches and panini. Pastries come from Artisan Boulanger Patissier and Betty's Tasty Buttons and the cheeses from Claudio's in South Philly and Hillacres Pride Farm. But they also try to utilize the farmer's market right outside their door on Saturdays, gathering ingredients from there, which is awesome seeing businesses supporting farmers as well as everyone else.

Since it was early in the morning, I didn't opt for a sandwich, but was tempted by the gouda, apple, lavender, and honey panini. Instead I just got a croissont and a muffin, made locally. I also tried two of their hand-poured coffee, which is different than their regular drip coffee. Their hand pour uses a glass pitcher below a filter, which holds ground beans. The barista slows pours hot water over the coffee beans, allowing it to get a more intense flavor of coffee, yet also much smoother. I tried two different kinds the Indonesian which was bold and nutty with what tastes like hints of fruit or berries, and the Guatemalan, which was pleasantly acidic yet smooth.

Mid pour:

This new addition is a solid neighborhood spot that respects local food and really takes pride in their coffee. They seem to take sustainability seriously too, with recycled glass from Mt. Airy and recycled wood from West Philly used to make some fixtures. They also have a compost service to reduce their footprint even further.

While they are still finding their groove with the decor and menu items, the people, coffee, and pastries were all very nice. It is great place to have across the farmer's market, to relax after a morning of browsing local eats.

Bodhi Coffee
410 S. 2nd St.
Philadelphia, PA 19147

Rhubarb Jam

2010-05-28T14:05:00.010-04:00

After eating up all of the strawberries I had from the Fairmount Farmer's Market, I still had some rhubarb left that I had picked up as well. I had known that I wanted to try my hand at some jam-making, so what better than a tart and sweet rhubarb jam with perfectly fresh and local rhubarb.

There's something about clean, simple flavors in the summer that just works. So, I eyed some fresh mint I had bundled in the fridge and got to thinking. Rhubarb and mint just sounds right; they are meant to be. And with the addition of lemon, this jam was beginning to scream summer.

Making jam feels so easy, and even though it takes time, it is well worth the wait, having much more flavor than most others. I had some doubts whether or not to use pectin or not. I have heard of jams that do not have pectin and it is left to thicken by just letting it reduce. But, I decided to use and it and I'm glad I did, it firmed it up and made it really "jammy." The addition of mint was fitting, and didn't get in the way of the rhubarb, adding only a very subtle flavor to the jam. It was really great on toasted bread with butter, but it's tart and sweet flavor could be used as you would use any other jam...this delicious spread didn't last very long.

Recipe
2 cups Rhubarb, medium diced
1 1/2 cups sugar
8 mint leaves (about a 1/4 cup)
1/2 lemon, zested and juiced
3 tbs. pectin (powdered)
1/4 water

In a medium saucepan, add the chopped rhubarb, sugar, lemon zest and juice, and whole mint (I put the whole stem in so I could easily skim it out later). Let it macerate for at least an hour.

Add the water to the rhubarb and heat the mixture on high, stirring every constantly until it boils. Remove the mint stem and leaves. Once it boils lower the heat to medium, and add the pectin. Begin skimming any foam that rises to the surface. Let it reduce until the rhubarb begins to break up and the mixture turns to a jam-like consistency. Cover and refrigerate; or eat it immediately and risk burning your mouth.

Yields about 2 cups of rhubarb jam.

Fairmount Farmer's Market

2010-05-24T14:43:00.013-04:00

The hype has been massive this season for local strawberries. It's been hard ignore the talk of how sweet and red they are this year. So, last Thursday, on a whim, when I saw that the Fairmount Farmer's Market was open on Thursdays, I shot a glance at the clock and hurried out the door before rush hour.

Fairmount Farmer's Market, situated right across from the famous Eastern State Penitentiary, is modest, with significantly less vendors than the weekend markets. But it's all good because the half dozen vendors that were there all had some great looking local produce and food. Samples of tons of variety of breads were given out by Wild Flour Bakery, while local produce like mushrooms, arugula, kale, Swiss chard, herbs, rhubarb, and strawberries were perched on display as treasures from their respective farms.

Most of my time was spent swooning over the myriad of colors at Livengood' Farm's produce. Livengood's is a family-run, organic farm situated in Lancaster which had unbelievably bright-colored rainbow chard. It's gold, orange, red, and pink stems playing off the dark green leaves like artwork. The vendors were incredibly nice and especially helpful and knowledgeable. But what I really came for was some local strawberries, but I also left with some rhubarb which I have been eying up for some jam. After I returned home, I ate nearly a pint of strawberries, and I was hooked. These strawberries really taste like strawberries, different than what we are accustomed to in the supermarket - the gigantic strawberries with white cores with a faint strawberry taste. Not these though, they are deep red all the way through and as sweet as it can get. Go get them now.

Fairmount Farmer's Market
22nd St. and Fairmount Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19130
Market open every Thurs., 3 - 7

Tagliatelle, Cacio e Pepe

2010-05-20T14:24:00.030-04:00

So, I'm cheating a little bit this week. This past weekend was very busy for me and I just never made it out to a farmer's market, so there was very little local produce left for me to work with. But, I am trying to check out the brand new outdoor farmer's market at Reading Terminal this Sunday. So stay tuned for that. Anyway, the only justifiable thing I can say is that I have been cooking and I did still have some of the Crotenese cheese from DiBruno's left, and they are a local business that sells local foods....right? Okay, it's a stretch but work with me.

This past March I spent two weeks traversing and eating my way through Italy. It was a kind of transformative experience for me and my experiences with food. Italy opened up my eyes to simplicity, freshness, and how much of their food is localized. Much of my research before the trip was spent scoping out places to eat - whether it was restaurants, street food, or cafes. The other night I was feeling especially reminiscent about my time in Rome, and maybe it was because I had a hankering for one of my favorite dishes that I have ever eaten. The dish was pasta with Cacio e pepe, or simply, black pepper and cheese eaten at La Matriciana. I know, it sound very basic, but I'm not sure that I have ever had a better pasta dish.

As I was reading the food memoir Heat the other night, I came across a quote stating quite simply, "It's about the pasta, not the sauce." I then realized if I was going to make cacio e pepe, I had to make my own pasta. So I did, and I have made pasta before with good results - it's time consuming but well worth it.

Pasta is really basic, so I made sure I used the best ingredients I had on hand. Since this was a last minute thing, the only flour I had was AP flour, not the most authentic, but it turned out just fine. The eggs I used were free range organic, with bright orange yolks. I also did my own twist on cacio e pepe, which would most likely be considered sacrilegious by Italians. I added cherry tomatoes and basil because I had them and, why not? What is difficult about pasta dough is the kneading required, which takes some time. I've read you cannot overknead pasta dough, but rather the more it is kneaded the silkier it becomes, but after the 10-15 minute mark, with sweat beads dangling off of my brow and my forearms burning from the workout, I surrendered. My mother often talks about her Italian grandmother, her forearms the size of a bodybuilder, and I can see how - pasta is a workout.

The pasta turned out great, and in my opinion, you just can't beat fresh pasta. My variation is a lot different than what I had in Italy, but it's very rewarding to make your own pasta, and it turned out to be really delicious and simple. The sharp saltiness of the cheese playing off of the spicy bite of black pepper atop the silky, light pasta is unbeatable.

Recipe

For the pasta dough:

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour (preferably unbleached, organic)

5 eggs (preferably free-range, organic, local)

1 tbsp. Sea Salt

2 tbsp. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

For the Sauce:

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

1/2 onion

3 cloves garlic

1/4 cup of olive oil

1 ladle reserved pasta water

Black Pepper - to taste, but I used quite a bit, about 2 1/2 tbsp., medium grind

Salt - to taste

On a wooden cutting board, mound the sifted flour and salt and make a well in the center. Add the eggs in the center along with the olive oil. Slowing start beating and mixing the eggs in with the flour. Continue to incorporate until the dough is shaggy with bit and pieces hanging off. Incorporate fully and begin kneading the dough for about 15 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for about a half an hour in the refrigerator.

Once rested, divide the dough into four parts. Roll out one of the portions of dough with a rolling pin until it is about 1/4" thick.

Using a pasta machine, start with the widest setting and run the dough through. Fold the dough over and run it through again, this gives the pasta texture and chew. Repeat and continue running the dough through until you reach the most narrow setting. Rest the sheets aside under a kitchen towel, or slightly damp paper towel, as to not let them fully dry out.

Begin cutting the dough either by hand, or with the pasta cutting attachment. Cut tagliatelle with all of the sheets.

For the sauce, add the onion, garlic, and tomatoes into the olive oil.

Cook the pasta for about 2-3 minutes, or until al dente in heavily salted, boiling water. Add the pasta to the sauce, then add the cheese, black pepper, and a ladle full of starchy pasta water. Coat the pasta in the sauce, top with basil and serve immediately.

Roasted Asparagus Salad

2010-05-15T01:30:00.030-04:00

Spring vegetables have arrived just in time for a favorite outdoor, warm weather activity - grilling. Unfortunately for me, I can't have a grill in my apartment, but I can still try to capture the summer BBQ essence. So, with the asparagus I picked up at Green Aisle Grocery, I decided to roast them and was still able to make an appetizer or side dish worthy of a picnic or eating al aire libre. It turned out to be fantastic, a great as a twist on a warm weather salad.

For the past month, I have been fig jam kick for breakfast (on toast with coffee is such goodies), and I decided to try to create my own version because, let's face it, that fig jam ain't cheap. I had also picked up dried hibiscus flowers for hibiscus iced tea - awesome for hot, sticky weather. I ended up steeping some flowers for the liquid with dried figs for my own jam or spread or whatever you want to call - either way it's ridiculously good. It turns out to be really easy to make, or maybe I just had beginner's luck. Some pulses in the food processor and it's done.

Last week, I also happened to be in DiBruno Bro's to pick up some bread and cheese for a picnic in Riitenhouse Square. My favorite thing to do at DiBruno's is to just have the cheese gurus tell you what's good and what's not. They end up just giving you samples of whatever they like - and it's never steered me wrong. I tasted an Italian sheep's milk cheese called Crotenese. It's sharp, oily, salty and perfect for complimenting and balancing the sweet and tart figs and hibiscus. I included some roughly chopped pistachios and thinly sliced onions to roast along with the asparagus. It ended up kind of like an antipasto or a salad type thing. Along with some good crusty bread and a deep, full flavored red wine, it was just right.

Recipe

1 Bunch Asparagus

5 Dried Hibiscus Flowers

1 cup dried figs - I used Black Mission, but I bet any variety would do well

1/3 Pistachio meat

1/2 Large White or Red Onion

1/4 cup shaved Crotenese cheese or Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano

3 tbs. Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 tbs. Agave Nectar or Sugar or Simple Syrup

1/2 cup water

Sea Salt and Black Pepper to taste

For the fig jam:

Steep the dried hibiscus flowers in boiling water. In a food processor, blend the figs, a couple hibiscus flowers, agave nectar, and hibiscus tea until smooth and the consistency of jam. Reserve for later.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Trim the asparagus a half an inch above the bottom of the stem. Arrange the asparagus on a baking sheet.

Slice some rings of onions as thin as possible. Place on top of the asparagus as well as the pistachios and hibiscus flowers. Coat with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Bake the asparagus for about 15 minutes or until tender. Cut stalks into thirds, shave slices of Crotenese cheese and top with extra fig jam and pistachios. Enjoy the deliciousness.

Green Aisle Grocery

2010-05-09T14:40:00.015-04:00

I poked into Green Aisle Grocery while taking a stroll down East Passyunk this Saturday afternoon. I have been hearing a lot about this place all of the local goodness they sell. The store itself is quaint and tiny, holding limited, gourmet products. Their fresh produce rotates with what is available and fresh from the farm, as it should be.

More than just fresh produce, they hold some local, gastronomic treasures like the hummus from Zahav, BBQ sauce from Pub and Kitchen, various mostardas from James as well as local coffee masters La Colombe. They had these unusual pickled vegetables that looked enticing, and I will be back to pick some up. But really, what I was drawn to was all of the fresh products. They had raw milks and cheeses, asparagus, rhubarb, and salad greens. Most of their produce comes from Green Meadow Farm in Gap, PA. The employee was adamant about the quality of produce, explaining that it can keep longer because transportation times are cut down, and the time something was picked is substanially less than traditional produce. Makes sense to me, I'm on board.

I decided to pick up a bunch of fresh asparagus that is deep emerald green in color, it looks amazing. I haven't decided what I'll do with it, but I can't wait to cook with it. It smells really grassy and has a firmness that isn't woody like traditional asparagus. With every week comes new things from the farm, so check it out.

Green Aisle Grocery
1618 East Passyunk Avenue
Philadelphia, PA 19148

Maitake Tacos

2010-05-03T01:49:00.022-04:00

After spending some time at Headhouse, I decided to go around the corner (kind of) to check out 9th Street and the Italian Market. But, I wasn't in search of fresh pasta or great cheeses - instead I wanted some ingredients to make my Mexican flavored and inspired Maitake tacos. I had heard about Tortilleria San Roman and their fresh, handmade corn tortillas. An old gruff man announced as I walked by, "hot tortillas!" I knew I was in good hands. I walked in a picked up a kilo of tortillas for $2. Yes, $2. A kilo has about 35 tortillas in it, which was handed to me still warm with heavenly wafts of a popcorn-like aroma assaulting my nostrils.

Along the way I also got a bunch of cilantro and lime. Tacos were on the mind, and I walked with an exciting strut holding my corn tortillas, cilantro, and limes down 9th street. I was also excited because I was planning on using the garlic chives I had picked up previously at Headhouse and the Maitake mushrooms I gathered at Clark Park yesterday. Ideas were beginning to flow and my stomach began a'rumblin'.

The start of a good meal:

I had radishes and carrots in the fridge that I wanted to use to make a crunchy pickled slaw that I could top the taco with to balance the earthy, woodsy mushroom. I made it light and fresh by pickling it with rice vinegar, blood orange juice, sambal, water, sugar, and salt. It really made the tacos stand out and provided great textural differences.

I am a guacamole fiend, and definitely cannot get enough of it if tortillas are involved. I decided to mash up some quick guacamole to really give the tacos some richness.

I wanted the character and the flavor of the Maitakes to hold up, without being veiled, so I did nothing more than saute them with some onion, garlic chives, and cilantro.

The finished tacos were meaty, light, fresh, and perfect for this muggy evening.

Garlic Chives:

Maitake Tacos
6 corn tortillas
2 cups Maitake Mushrooms, roughly chopped
1/2 White Onion
1/2 cup Garlic Chives
1/2 cup Cilantro, chopped
2 tbsp Vegetable Oil
Mexican Hot Sauce (I use Cholula's)

For the Guacamole:
2 Avocados, ripe
1/2 Plum Tomato, diced
1/4 cup Cilantro, rough chop
1/2 Lime Juice
Salt and Pepper

For the Pickled Slaw:
1 Carrot, halved and cut into matchsticks
1 Bunch radishes, cut in half moons
1/3 Cup Rice Vinegar
1/2 Cup Water
1 tbsp Sambal
3 tbsp. Agave Nectar
3 tbsp. Salt
Juice of 1/2 Blood Orange

To start the pickled slaw, heat the rice vinegar, sambal, agave nectar, and salt in a saucepan until everything has melded together - about 3-5 minutes. Pour over the carrots and radishes and squeeze the blood orange juice over top. Let sit anywhere from 1 hour to 24 hours (The longer it sits, the better.)

Take all of the guacamole ingredients and mash with a fork. Reserve to top tacos, or in my case, snack as you cook.

Saute the onions with the vegetable oil until they are sweated and translucent. Add the garlic chives and Maitake mushrooms and cook for about 3-5 minutes on medium heat. Prepare the tortillas by heating them until they begin to smell toasted.

Assemble the tacos with the mushrooms, guacamole, pickled slaw, cilantro and hot sauce. Serve with lime wedges and slices of blood orange.

Headhouse Farmer's Market

2010-05-02T18:22:00.028-04:00

Today was the opening of the Headhouse Farmer's Market. There was an excitement in the air, like the opening day of a baseball game. People were buzzing, weaving to and fro and in and out of the shaded stalls, and it was hard to not get caught up in the hoopla. The Headhouse farmer's market stretches along the covered brick pavilion, enticing shoppers with a variety of vendors from local farms.

As I become a farmer's market regular, I am starting to notice some other regular vendors and customers. I am also beginning to have a seasoned eye for deals - what looks attractive, what tastes good, and what's a steal. I also get to see what is coming into season from week to week, it's all very exciting.

One of the things that caught my eye the most is the local and organic food truck parked right beside the market that makes sausage sandwiches. Renaissance Sausage sources local ingredients to make four different sandwiches - a pork sausage, a lamb and beef sausage, a chicken sausage, and a vegetarian sausage made from local veggies and herbs. I sadly didn't get to try it, but it looks interesting and I know I will be back. While I was at the market, there was a consistent and steady long line the entire time.

I eventually gravitated toward the smell of springtime - fresh cut lilacs and Japanese maple from a local farmer. Queen's Farm operates a local, chemical free cultivation of fresh produce. The lilacs caught my eye and nose, but I stuck around for their fresh Asian produce. They began farming in 2003 and now have over 30 acres devoted to growing traditional Asian vegetables that can be hard to find. Today, they had oyster mushrooms and garlic chives. I decided to pick up a bunch of garlic chives that I could use for dinner. They taste more like garlic than chives, and are often used in stir-fries. I used them for something different, but either way, they were fantastic.

Queen's Farm
2069 W. Street Rd.
West Chester, PA 19382

Headhouse Square
2nd St. and Lombard St.
Philadelphia, PA 19147
Farmer's Market every Sun. 10 - 2

Clark Park Farmer's Market

2010-05-02T18:07:00.019-04:00

In West Philly, just off of Baltimore Ave., lies Clark Park. I must have passed it hundreds of times without even giving it a thought. Turns out, that was a mistake. Clark Park is a vast, open park with plenty of open green space and trees with old Victorian homes and quaint cafe's highlighting the natural landscape.

Every Saturday, the farmer's market comes to Clark Park, bringing with it plenty of vendors and hordes of people. It was an especially sunny morning when I arrived, and I was immediately content just taking in the smells of the food carts lining the streets. The Cupcake Lady, Honest Tom's, and Just Desserts were doing a number to my senses, putting my non-caffeinated body into a zombie-like stupor. But thankfully, a ridiculously flavorful Stumptown coffee from Honest Tom's got me in the market mood.

There were more vendors here this week than there were at the Piazza, and I really liked the diversity. There were college students who set up a table selling their own cultivated produce, Amish farmers, and other vendors selling honey, cheese, raw milk, eggs, grass fed beef, free range chicken, and plenty of produce. Rhubarb was a common theme among the different vendors, with it being aplenty and currently in season.

I however, opted for the Hen of the Woods mushrooms that were from Nathan's Nursery. Hen of the Woods are also sometimes called Maitake mushrooms. I was told it was rich and complex, and besides that, they look like some natural, earthy artwork. It was a great price and there was only one more container left, so I took the bait and snatched it up.

Clark Park Farmer's Market
43rd St. and Baltimore Ave.
Philadelphia, PA 19104
Farmer's Market every Sat. 10 - 2

Polenta with Tatsoi

2010-05-02T16:26:00.019-04:00

I was craving polenta recently, the traditional northern Italian peasant dish made from cornmeal. I had the beautiful tatsoi in the fridge from this week's farmers market and thought that even though it is used mainly in Asian foods, it's pleasant bitterness would work well in some polenta. I also had baby heirloom tomatoes sitting around from the market. Some good butter, pecorino romano, and truffle oil never hurt anything, so suddenly a meal was tantalizing me in my head.

It was pretty late, and even though it was a somewhat muggy evening, I was starving, wanting something homey and filling. Polenta, with it's porridgey-richness did the trick. The bitter green tatsoi was earthy, sharp, garlickly, and spicy which played off well with the candy-like roasted tomatoes. The crispy shallots were a nice textural difference, providing crunch against the soft, creamy polenta.

Polenta with Tatsoi

1 cup Polenta

3 sm. heads Tatsoi (tough stems partially removed)

2 cups baby heirloom tomatoes

3 tbs. butter

1 tbs. red chile flakes

1.5 tbs white truffle oil

1/3 cup grated Pecorino Romano

1 bunch parsley

4 shallots

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup half and half

1/3 cup olive oil

2 tbs. Balsamic Vinegar

Sea Salt and Pepper

Half the baby heirloom tomatoes, sprinkle with sea salt and balsamic vinegar and roast them at 215 degrees for about an hour. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the raw tomatoes to top the polenta. Whisk the polenta into 4 cups boiling water, generously salted, preventing lumps from forming. Cook for about 30-40 minutes, whisking every few minutes. Cut the shallots into rings and fry in the oil until golden brown and crispy. Reserve them for later.

Saute the tatsoi, garlic, and chile flakes in the remaining olive oil from the shallots. Heat them until they wilt only a little, keeping them firm. Add the tatsoi and roasted tomatoes into the polenta when it is almost finished.

Finish the polenta in the last minute with half and half, butter, pecorino romano, and pepper to taste.

Serve immediately with some raw sliced heirloom tomatoes, parsley, the crispy shallots, and a drizzly of truffle oil.

Piazza Farmer's Market

2010-04-27T18:08:00.017-04:00

This past weekend, I spent my morning lazily strolling in the early sun at the Piazza in Northern Liberties. Every Saturday (and soon to be Sunday) the Piazza is home to a farmer's market with lots of vendors and so many goodies around. It was nice to wake up late, meander out of bed and sample pastries (mmm...canalé), cheese, coffee, and talk to some good people and farmers who are passionate about food.

The Piazza itself is a really open space surrounded by restaurants, bars, and art galleries, so it seems like a natural fit to host a farmer's market. The different vendors had a decent variety of various types of food. Local farms and bakeries set up shop selling tons of local produce, raw milk, cheeses, grass-fed meats, eggs, breads, honey, and desserts.

I was drawn to the beautiful looking produce at the Weaver's Way Co-op stand. Weaver's Way is based out of the Mt. Airy section of Philadelphia, operating a few farms and a CSA farm. I was deciding between spring radishes and tatsoi and was convinced to get a bunch of tatsoi, a green, leafy vegetable that's kind of like spinach and kind of like bok choy. I was told it's a little bitter, a little bit creamy, and earthy. I tore off a raw leaf and enjoyed it's sharp, pungent bite, so now I am definitely excited to start cooking with it.

My Bounty:

Weaver's Way Co-op

559 Carpenter Lane

Philadelphia, PA 19119

Piazza at Schmidts

N. 2 St. and Germantown Ave.

Philadelphia, PA 19123

Farmer's Market Sat. and Sun. 10 - 2